A Complete Guide to Travel in India
I’d dreamed of travelling to India all my life.
In 2015, back when I was lucky enough to have one of the best jobs that I could imagine. This job gave an opportunity to visit 136 countries. One of the countries I have always wanted to visit was India. It took me months after my first trip to India to write about it – not for want of enthusiasm – but for the daunting task of trying to put my first trip to India into words.
The sub-continent to me stood for a land of energy, mystery, spirituality, colour and love.
I fantasised about riding around on trains and smelling the heat and energy of the place. Of seeing elephants and tigers, colourful saris, prayer ceremonies on the banks of the ganges, chaotic streets blocked by slow moving cows and so much more.
But beyond that, Incredible India has just always held an inexplicable draw for me. It has tugged at my heart strings. And I know I’m not the only one.
I’ve come to learn a little of what to expect travelling India and how to prepare for travel in India – whether it’s for the first or tenth time.
India Travel Update 2021
As of March this year, the India travel ban was rolled out as a result of the corona virus pandemic and India shut its borders internationally. All tourist visas were suspended, and many travellers were stranded in India as India went into one of the world’s strictest lockdowns.
As of October 2020, India remains closed to international travel on a tourist visa unless you are an Indian national or hold an OCI card. India has re-opened to domestic tourism as restrictions are eased, but there is as of yet no date for the re-opening of India for international tourism.
We will update this post once there is an official announcement, and we suggest you (continue to) check with official sources for updates, such as your government’s travel advisory.
First Time India: What to Expect.
The Average travel advice for India is full of cliches such as “expect the unexpected”, or even “prepare to lose yourself”. Unhelpful as they might sound, there’s a reason for these cliches. Over my journeys to India I’ve come to realise that life somehow seems much “larger” there – there’s the chaos, the bustle, the beauty, but also the sheer number of people somehow ensure, that whatever your opinions on what to expect from your first trip to India, you’ll never be quite right.
So here are my own versions of the cliches, based on this traveller’s experiences:
Prior to my arrival to Mumbai, I posted on my Facebook page “Ready for India… I think” one of my friends wrote back “You are never ready for India. But the good thing is, India is always ready for you!”.
I can’t think of anything more true. Nothing prepares you for the reality of India. It really is like no other place on earth.
Leave your expectations on the plane. It’s one thing to read about India in books and see pictures. It’s another to be there. Prime example: the Taj Mahal (a must for any visitor, despite its overburdening popularity). No matter how many pictures of the Taj Mahal we’ve all seen, there is nothing that prepares you for the actual beauty of the place. Glistening white in the morning sunshine, rising from the misty river banks behind. Just like the Taj, first time India is an experience best enjoyed without expectations and pre-judgements.
India will teach you patience. This is one of the few things you can be certain of. Getting frustrated when things don’t go to plan or you discovered you’ve been ripped off in some transaction does not serve us well. Understanding up front that ‘staring’ is not considered particularly rude by many, and that you may attract quite a few stares during your trip, will help keep your patience in tact too. In short—in a country where the lateness of trains is measured not by hours late but by quarter, half or full day late—adapting an open, go with the flow attitude makes travel in India a lot more enjoyable. Which brings me to my next point…
You have not experienced India until you’ve taken a train. Despite the recent growth in domestic airlines in India, 90% of India’s population travel from place to place by train. Passenger trains extend for up to half a kilometre long, run distances such as Mumbai to Kolkata (2,000 Kilometres, taking 1.5 days) and Indian Railways is the largest employers in the world.
Trains are relatively comfortable in India (providing they’re on time that is!) and often make the most convenient and interesting option for inter-city journeys. For more comfort go for 2 or 3 tier AC as opposed to the non AC option, and enjoy the opportunity to meet and talk to people—you’ll find that many Indians are happy to have an opportunity to converse in English and are curious to know more about you. Trains can fill up quickly so advance booking is recommended and booking can be a challenge—if you’re tight on time and need to get to specific places on a schedule it is well worth looking into using a travel agent to book trains, as trains do sell out. Trains are also a good option for solo female travellers.
Be prepared for dirt, pollution and poverty. Sadly, India’s population of 1.2 billion + has taken its toll on the country and its not uncommon to see piles of rotting garbage, cows happily eating plastic in the streets, and railway lines strewn with trash. It’s easy to point fingers at the people throwing trash, but the truth is waste (let alone recycling) infrastructure is not at all up to scratch in many parts of India, as well as there being an education problem about what to do with garbage. Don’t let this put you off a visit, but it is something to be prepared for. Do your bit by avoiding single use plastic on your trip to India – tips on how to do that in our responsible travel section below.
Poverty is prevalent in many places and is heartbreaking, and it’s also a complex issue. While wealthy Indians are undoubtedly getting richer and more numerous and the middle class is growing too, there is still a large section of society who do not have access to clean water or even toilets. Many of the rural poor flock to India’s megacities in search of work and opportunity, but they find harsh conditions and often the most vulnerable are recruited into begging rings, criminal gangs, and worse.
In most of India’s towns and cities you’ll see people on the streets in a desperate state, and railway stations are ground zero for professional beggars. Whether you decide to give is up to you, but know that most temples do offer free food to those in need and many involved in begging are addicted to drugs and alcohol.
I recommend supporting charities who aim to help with the various problems. I strongly advise against giving pens, sweets, money or anything else to begging children as it sets a precedent for other visitors, and the gifts they are given are often exchanged for money afterwards, amongst other problems.
Planning Your First Trip to India
The seventh largest country in the world, India occupies more than 3 million kilometres of landmass on the globe. That’s a lot of travelling. Assuming most first time visitors to India have 1-3 weeks to travel around, we recommend sticking with one area of the country.
Many first time visitors to India go for the Golden Triangle, which is made up of Agra, Delhi, and Jaipur, plus a bit of Rajasthan added on, time permitting. The reason is simple: Agra is home to the Taj Mahal and is just 3 hours from Delhi, Jaipur is home to stunning Mughal Arhitecture and palaces galore, and also within easy reach of Delhi too.
The fact that most travellers do just this, is the reason we suggest not to just to the Golden Triangle when visiting India first time. These are India’s most touristed (and to some extent over-touristed) destinations in India, and naturally are where you’ll find the tourist crowds. Because of the high level of (foreign) tourism to these areas, it’s also where you’ll find most hassle: partly from enthusiastic vendors who are used to cash-rich-time-poor tourists who aren’t used to bargaining, and partly from men who hope to catch a glimpse of less-than-well-covered skin. It’s not that we don’t like Delhi, Agra or Jaipur (ok well actually sorry Agra, we really don’t like you), but in our view they aren’t the best places to kick off your first visit to India with: especially if travelling alone.
Where to Go on Your First Trip to India
This really depends on your preferences and interests, and what you want to experience on your travels to India. India’s North is diverse from the South in many ways – from architecture, to language, to food and landscapes.
Those in search of mountains and trekking head north to the peaks of Himachal Pradesh and the Indian Himalayas in Ladakh. Beach lovers head south to Goa and Kerala, and Rajasthan is hard to beat when it comes to princely palaces and sheer impressiveness. Food and architecture connoisseurs are spoilt for choice as the whole country is awash with tasty thalis and faith-inspiring temples.
Spiritual seekers, yogis and would-be-gurus head to the life-changing cities of Rishikesh and Varanasi. When I planned my first trip to India I knew that I had to see Varanasi: one of the oldest cities in the world. Love it or hate it, there’s no denying that Varanasi is quite unlike any other place on earth.
South India (usually taken as meaning Mumbai and below) is seen as having a more relaxed, easy going vibe, less conservative than the north, and so is often taken as a better option for solo female travellers to India. The reality though is a bit more complicated than that. Laid back Buddhist-influenced Ladakh in the far north of India is every bit as safe as Kerala for women, where more conservative areas still exist. While in some ways the differences between North and South India may be blurred the differences in landscape could not be more stark. While the south is home to swaying palms, heavy monsoons and lush, thick green grasses and rice paddies, the north is a sandy bowl, exposed to extreme heat each summer. If you like to get truly off the beaten path then East and North East India may be just the thing for you.
Your India Packing List – Our Recommendations
First things first: Don’t pack too much!
1) You’ll want to leave enough space in your bag to buy all the pretty colourful things…. and
2) Travel in India (especially if you’re doing it independently) involves a lot of moving around, a fair amount of getting in and out of transport – not to mention various modes of transport. You won’t want to be carrying your bathroom cabinet around. If in doubt? Leave it at home!
Packing for India
The most important thing: Travel Insurance. Don’t leave home without it! Get a quote with World Nomads (who we use) here.
Clothing for Women – sorry guys, you can pretty much wear what you want – see more on the what to wear section below.
Loose fitting, sleeved shirts or tunics – We love these ones for women. Avoid solid white as the dust will spoil it easily – patterns disguise dirt better! Cotton or linen shirts/t-shirts are fine.
2-3 Light Scarves – useful for draping over your head / chest – go as colourful as you like! And don’t take too many as you’re sure to buy some there
Loose fitting linen/cotton pants for women
Closed slip on/off shoes similar to VANS / TOMS (that you don’t mind getting dirty!) are ideal as you’ll likely want to protect your feet while travelling & walking around cities, and a pair of flip-flips for hanging out in, too. If you’re planning on trekking, bring good trekking shoes.
Toiletries
Ladies – Tampons are available in the big cities, but not beyond and are expensive. It’s better to avoid use of sanitary napkins due to inadequate waste disposal and the plastic waste they create. We recommend using non-polluting protection such as a menstrual cup, washable pads, or period underwear.
Try to bring plastic-free, organic/chemical free soap and shampoo bars, as often waste goes straight into the water.
Electronics
India’s power sockets are a fun mix – including 2 round pin european style, 3 round pin and 3 square pin. So a multi way travel adaptor (or 3) is a must!
Make sure to bring a power bank for long bus, launch and train journeys
Staying Healthy in India
First off – not everyone gets sick in India! (Read our tips for avoiding Delhi belly here)
A first aid kit is highly recommended for India – bring disinfectant liquid, cream, plasters, broad spectrum antibiotics, mosquito repellant, sunscreen and meds for stomach upsets. In case you do need medical help, the major cities such as Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata and Bangalore have world-class medical facilities.
Travel Insurance! A must for India – don’t leave home without it. We use World Nomads and recommend them. read our full guide to travel insurance for India here!
Water filtration / purification equipment & water bottle as tap water is not safe to drink in India (but commonly available filtered (RO) water is fine – I have drunk it for many months)
Local Transport: How to Get Around in India.
Domestic Flights. Given the size of India, it’s perhaps no surprise that India’s domestic flight network is booming and becoming increasingly popular. I'm not fan of flying and frankly think that any other means of transport is more interesting (as well as being more carbon friendly), but I also recognise that there are times when one needs to fly.
Of the domestic operators, Jet Airways was my favourite but alas went into liquidation. Indigo is no-frills but usually efficient, and Vistara (owned by Taj) has great service. These are two of our favourites; on the other hand I usually try to avoid Air India who have a habit of getting delayed…
Note that it is possible to get to most places by train instead of flying – you just need time. There are popular routes that many choose to fly on – such as Mumbai to Goa – where the train ride only takes 8 hours and takes you through beautiful, lush scenery.
If you plan to fly in India be aware that the baggage limit is often 15kg (so less than international flights) and remember to bring the debit/credit card you used to make the flight booking with you to check in as airlines will ask to see it.
Trains. Indian Railways is a huge part of the infrastructure of India (as well as the third largest employer in the world) and to travel to India without taking a train is to miss India completely. Booking tickets can be a time-consuming process / require a little patience so if you’re in a hurry and want to book your tickets from abroad, we suggest using a travel agent.
Some of my favourite journeys to date have been: Mumbai – Pune (get the early morning train for full effect of sun rising over the mountains); Delhi – Kolkata and the Rajdhani (express trains); Kochin – Goa and Ajmer – Udaipur in Rajasthan.
Buses. Buses and even pick-ups and mini-vans form a key part of local transport infrastructure and are the best option for getting to and from smaller towns that don’t have railway access. These are a mix between state-run buses and private buses. Depending on the state you are in, you can search for that state’s “State Road Transport” or buses: For example “Kerala State Road Transport Corporation” runs in Kerala, known as the KSRTC will get you bus schedules and information.
There are also plenty of over-night sleeper buses on longer distance routes – these tend to all be AC, and many travellers prefer to opt for Volvo buses which are considered high-end and safer. I prefer travelling by train for overnight journeys as we find it more comfortable, but buses are easier to book than trains and can be a good option if trains are sold out.
Should I Travel Alone to India?
This is an important question, as it determines to some extent the type of experience you will have. Particularly for (solo) female travellers. On my first trip to India, I travelled as part of an Intrepid Travel tour group. I had an amazing time. I got to experience plenty of India (their style of tours include travel on trains and other local transport, eating with local families, and plenty of cultural activities) so I felt that in many ways I got the best of both worlds.
On my subsequent trips to India, however, I’ve travelled without tours or groups, and for significant amounts of time by myself.
So Should you Travel to India Solo for the First Time?
It really depends on you. India is a beautiful country filled with many kind, compassionate and generous people.
On my first solo trip to India I was definitely nervous. I was reassured by the fact that i’d already been to India and so knew a little of what to expect. I’d been warned away from travelling India for the first time solo, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t. Unfortunately there’s a huge amount of negative press around solo female travel in India – and an equally large number of naysayers to solo female travel there – which can put a damper on any intrepedista’s plans.
To thrive in India as a solo (especially female) traveller, you need:
A good level of confidence and guts (or fake it til you make it – what I did!)
Some experience of travelling in developing countries is helpful
To have your wits about you – or do as in India and rely on intuition
To be willing to adapt to local customs – which may mean not going out after dark, putting up with men talking over you, covering up / dressing conservatively – to name but a few things. Even if you do not agree with such customs, measures such as covering up and towing the line are essential in some parts of India.
To be willing to keep an open mind
To be willing to deal with stares, many a chat-up line, and possibly the odd grope. It doesn’t mean you have to “put up” with them – you can react as you please! But these things *can* happen and should not ruin your trip.
As a solo or independent traveller you get to run your own schedule, move at your own pace and have plenty of conversations with new friends over chai. Enough said.
With a group or on a tour, you have less freedom but more feeling of security, ready-made friends, and in the case of a tour most of the pain of organising things is done… leaving you to enjoy your holiday.
If you’re not sure where to head as a solo female traveller in India, we recommend starting in South India (which is more relaxed) and working your way north.
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