Petra in Jordan is always appearing on top travel lists – the top ten places to see in your lifetime, the new seven wonders of the world. But unlike some places which feature on those lists, it’s actually fairly easy and not too expensive to visit Petra. There’s accommodation ranging from tented camps to five-star resorts, there’s good public transport or it’s simple to drive yourself around, it’s safe and the people are incredibly friendly and welcoming.
So if you want to visit Petra, which is the best way to do it? While plenty of companies offer organized tours, it’s also an easy place to visit independently. Here’s everything you need to know when planning a trip to Petra – including how to get there, the closest hotels, the best times to visit, and even the best places for a drink after a long day exploring.
WHERE TO STAY IN PETRA
A whole town – Wadi Musa – has grown up to cater for visitors coming to Petra. The town has hotels of all types and budgets, which start right next by the entrance and stretch up into the hills, as well as plenty of places to eat, souvenir shops and travel agencies.
Luxury: The Mövenpick Resort* is just across the street from Petra. It’s a big five-star hotel with over 180 rooms and seven restaurants, bars and cafés on site, as well an outdoor pool and a roof terrace with amazing views where there’s often live music at sunset.
Mid-range: The four-star Petra Guest House*, is a close as you can get to Petra, located right next door to the visitor’s centre. It has a mix of rooms and self-contained chalets overlooking the mountains around Wadi Musa, along with a restaurant, terrace and cave bar.
Budget: If you have a car then the hotels a bit further away up on the hillside are good value and come with stunning views. The Rocky Mountain Hotel* is a simple, family-run guesthouse with free tea and coffee on the roof terrace and free shuttles to Petra.
HOW TO GET TO PETRA
If you’re staying in the centre of Wadi Musa, Petra is just a short walk away. Or the hotels further out often run a free shuttle to the visitor’s centre a couple of times a day, though it does mean you’re limited to fixed times. Otherwise there are plenty of taxis outside the visitor’s centre, especially in the afternoons, and you’ll pay about JD5 within Wadi Musa.
If you are driving to Petra, it’s 236km (around 3 hours) from the Jordanian capital Amman to Petra via the faster Desert Highway or 255km (4.5 hours) via the slower but more scenic King’s Highway. Or from the coastal resort of Aqaba to Petra is a 126km drive (2 hours). There’s a free car park in Petra opposite the bus stop just in front of the Petra Moon hotel.
This bus stop is also where you can catch the JETT buses to Amman and Aqaba if you’re travelling around Jordan by public transport. Or if you are limited on time and looking for a convenient way to get to Petra, there are tour packages including transport and tickets available from Amman* and Aqaba* in Jordan or Eilat* and Tel Aviv* in Israel.
HOW MUCH DO TICKETS FOR PETRA COST?
Petra is one of those places where the longer you stay the better value it is. A one-day ticket costs JD50 (£53/$70) per person, but a two-day ticket is only JD55 and a three-day ticket JD60. Children under 15 get free entry. These are the prices if you are staying in Jordan; if you’re on a day trip and not staying in the country overnight then the price is JD90.
You also pay JD90 if you visit Petra on the day you arrive in the country, but if you go back the next day you can get a JD40 refund. You can buy tickets at the visitor’s centre by cash or credit card. You can also pick up maps, guide books and hire a guide (JD50–100).
If you’re going to be visiting other sites in Jordan, you also can get a Jordan Pass which includes entry to Petra plus 40 other sites and museums around the country, including Jesash, Amman Citadel and Wadi Rum. The passes costs JD70 for one day entry to Petra, JD75 for two days or JD80 for three days, and you can buy them online.
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT PETRA?
The best time to visit Jordan is during the spring and autumn – April, May, October and November – as it’s dry, not too hot and the crowds are smaller. Summers can get hot, with August average temperatures from 17–34°C (67–93°F), and not much shade on site. January is the coolest and wettest month, with average temperatures from 2–14°C (36–57°F).
Petra’s ticket office is open every day, from 6am to 6pm in the summer and from 6am to 4pm during the winter. The site closes around sunset and the quietest times to visit Petra are usually in the early mornings and late afternoons.
Petra is also open on Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays nights when the Siq and Treasury are lit by candles for the Petra by night tour. Tickets cost JD17 (£18/$24) and the tour starts at 8.30pm and finishes around 10.30pm. It’s really popular so I’d recommend hanging back so you can experience the magic of the Siq away from the scrum of visitors.
WHAT SHOULD I WEAR?
You’ll be walking over sandy and rocky ground and covering a few miles, so walking shoes (or sturdy sandals if you don’t mind picking the odd stone out) are the best bet. There’s very little shade around the site, so a hat or scarf is useful, and don’t forget plenty of sunscreen.
You see people wandering around Petra in all sorts of clothing – from full-on hiking gear to vests and shorts. As Jordan is a Muslim country I felt happier covered up with a long-sleeved cotton top and trousers (early mornings can be cool in spring and autumn). It’s not necessary for women to cover their hair, though a scarf makes a useful shield from the sun and dust.
HOW MUCH WALKING WILL I HAVE TO DO?
Petra stretches over a massive 60 square kilometres so you’ll end up doing a lot of walking. If it gets too much then there are camels, donkeys and horses to do the hard work for you.
A carriage ride from the visitor’s centre to the Treasury costs around JD20 (£21/$28). It’s an easy 15-minute walk downhill though so you might want to save the ride till the way back up as that final slog up the sandy path back to the entrance after a day’s walking is tough.
There are donkey and camel handlers all around the site if you want a lift at any other time. The donkeys up to the Monastery and for the hour’s walk from the old city to the Siq at the end of the day are the busiest, but there are plenty of them around so you should be able to negotiate on the price. There have been reports of some handlers mistreating their animals, so do be aware of this and check that they look healthy and well-cared-for.
CAN I GET FOOD AND DRINK AT PETRA?
Most hotels in Petra will supply a packed lunch if you ask the night before, and there is a line of stalls outside the entrance where you can pick up drinks and snacks like chocolate and crisps. Prices inside the site are higher so it’s worth stocking up before you go in.
Bottled water is widely available at stalls in and outside the site, but it’s a good idea to bring a refillable water bottle with a purification system so you can fill up with tap water, both to save money and to cut down on plastic waste which is becoming an increasing problem.
There’s a mixture of places to eat and drink inside Petra, from Bedouin tea stalls and simple kiosks to cafés, and there’s even a full restaurant near the museum called The Basin where you can have a buffet lunch and bottle of wine (you might need a camel to carry you after!).
WHAT ELSE SHOULD I KNOW ABOUT VISITING PETRA?
Petra is well-equipped with toilets, with toilet blocks at the visitor’s centre, near the Theatre and museum. There are also portaloos at the start of the Siq and at a couple of cafés.
There are souvenir stalls all over Petra (and sellers can be pushy) but one worth a stop is a jewellery stall by the museum run by New Zealander Marguerite van Geldermalsen. She came to Jordan as a backpacker in the 1970s and ended up marrying a Bedouin who lived in a cave in Petra. She’s written a book about her experiences called Married To A Bedouin.*
And finally, if you’re in need of a drink after a long day of walking, some of the nicest places to stop at on the way out are the Movenpick Hotel’s Arabian-style bar or the Cave Bar by the Petra Guest House – a 2000-year-old Nabataean tomb which has been turned into a bar.
Darko Vasic
September 28, 2021
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